Salt Lake's Franklin Avenue as a Historic Black Neighborhood

General location of Franklin Avenue, between 200-300 South and State St-200 East

Between about 1885 and the 1920s, Franklin Ave (now Edison St) became home to a large population of Black Americans.

This mid-block alley situated within the original 13th Ward, started out like other blocks of the original SLC plat- residential and agricultural lands divided among early Mormon settlers of the 1840s-1850s.

After the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869 (through Ogden) and the first railroad spur to SLC in 1870, new arrivals became more common. Coupled with the great western migration of Black Americans after the Civil War, Salt Lake (and Ogden) became a place for people to find work relating to the railroad and hospitality, often the only type of jobs that Black people were allowed to obtain, such as porters, waiters, cooks, maids, laborers, etc. As such, both Salt Lake and Ogden saw population increase of Black Americans and other groups.

A view of Salt Lake City in the 1870s. Although Franklin Ave is located outside the image, it gives a good idea of what the area looked like at this time.

 
Also, by 1870, those early log cabins and small adobe homes on large parcels belonging to the original Mormon settlers had largely fallen into disrepair and had been subdivided; sometimes sold for redevelopment and sometimes rented out to the new SLC arrivals, generally those economically disadvantaged newcomers who could afford these low-cost rentals. On Franklin Avenue, these tended to be Scandinavian speaking converts to the LDS church (through the 1870s-1880s) and eventually to Black Americans.

Franklin Ave had a reputation for being a tough neighborhood in the 1870s. At the time a large Scandinavian population lived on the street. As was common with mid-block alleys, a number of raucous characters were present. Newspapers noted that two families often indulged “in the unlawful practice of calling each other bad names, in the Scandinavian language.”

Brothels started up on Franklin Ave at this time as well. Mid-block alleys and the hidden center of city blocks were out of sight from the more respectable business along the main streets and thus became the preferred location of many vices. At this time the brothels on Franklin Ave seem to have only been run by White people, mostly women. By 1878 the Deseret News identified Franklin Ave as a “Bad Place” with “loose characters.”

The 1880s brought some Black people to the neighborhood. The first Black residents of Franklin Ave that I could find were Alice and Benjamin Nesbitt who resided there in 1884. Alice later became president of the Colored women’s Republican Club and worked to secure voting rights for Black women in Utah. The rooms and houses available for rent were owned primarily by White people; the most prominent owner being John Johnson who supplied rented housing and jobs to people on Franklin Ave.

Notably, many of the buildings were lacking in maintenance and sanitary conditions were atrocious. A sewer line was installed in 1888 but many of the older homes were never connected, and outhouses remained common. The street remained unpaved through this time, which is an important consideration of the sanitary conditions when coupled with lack of standardized garbage disposal, accumulation of animal waste, and the prevalence of coal burning stoves.

Franklin Ave in 1905. One of the earlier images showing the majority residential buildings.

By the time the first Black residents moved into Franklin Ave in the mid-1880s, the street was already a difficult neighborhood. Rents were probably cheap, but brothels and gambling dens were common.

Sanitary conditions were notably inadequate. The Salt Lake Herald complained for several years of the perpetual cesspool that existed on the southern end of Franklin Ave at 300 South; their 1888 article described it as a “slimy, green, stagnant pool [that] emits a very nauseating effluvia these warm days and is bound to make somebody sick…”

The 1890s saw a dramatic shift from White to Black residents, likely drawn by cheap rent. Some of this influx was due to the arrival of the 24th Infantry (Buffalo Soldiers) at Fort Douglas in 1896 with some of the Soldiers families living on Franklin Ave and some Soldiers choosing to stay in SLC after they were discharged from the Army.

The 1900 census shows all but one of the buildings on Franklin Ave were home to Black families, including Ella Phelps who, along with her husband James and son James Roscoe, ran a rooming house for other Black individuals at 249 Franklin Ave (now a parking lot). Notably the Phelps did not own their building.

The exception to Black residents was the Salvation Army’s Workingmen’s Hotel (which is now the Franklin Ave Theater building at 231 Edison- more on that later) which was occupied only by White men.

The Black population of SLC continued to increase, especially in and around Franklin Ave. Throughout the 1890s and early 1900s the Salt Lake Herald-Republican newspaper referred to the street as “Darktown.”

Many of the SLC Black organizations that exist today can trace their beginnings to the residents of Franklin Ave. Both Calvary Baptist Church and Trinity African Methodist Episcopal (AME) Church began on Franklin Ave with the initial fundraising efforts and early church meetings.

In 1906, SLC changed the name of Franklin Ave to Edison St, largely to “rebrand” the street from Black residential to White commercial. The first White-owned business, Skelton Printing, moved into the Franklin Ave Theater building in 1906.

Throughout the next decade more business displaced the residents. The 1911 Sanborn Map indicates about half of the buildings on Franklin Ave/Edison St were residential, mostly on the southern half of the street. By 1926, the Sanborn Map shows no residential buildings.

Many of the displaced residents moved to the south end of the Central City neighborhood, mostly 400 South-900 South and Main St-500 East.

Edison Street (formerly Franklin Ave) in 1936, showing majority commercial buildings.

A note on Salt Lake's Black population:

In 1900, 278 Black people were recorded as living in SLC and in 1910 this increased to 737, most of whom (but not all) lived on or around Franklin Ave. The overall Black population in SLC was small during this time, only about 1% of SLC (even accounting for undercounting of the census).

• 1900: 278 black / 77,725 total SLC population = 0.4%
• 1910 737 black / 131,462 total SLC population = 0.6%

For comparison, the 2020 census records Utah's Black population as 2%

Sanborn Maps showing the transition of Franklin Ave to Edison Street, 1926-1950

Blue Houses = Residential Buildings

Red Shopping Cart = Commercial Buildings

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Franklin Avenue's Name Changed to Edison Street in 1906

In 1906, Franklin Avenue’s name was changed to Edison Street. It was a deliberate attempt by SLC government officials and property owners to change the racial make up of the street: from a residential area occupied nearly entirely by Black American families to a commercial district owned and operated by White businesses.

A 1906 newspaper article detailing the excitement of pushing out Black residents of Franklin Ave.

It was a deliberate decision to push an "undesirable" population out of the downtown area of Salt Lake City. Many of whom eventually relocated to the southern half of the Central City neighborhood, primarily south of 400 South and west of 500 East.

The name change was petitioned by property owners of Franklin Ave, who were primarily White individuals and descendants of the original Mormon/LDS Pioneers who settled this block.

The Black residents of the street were primarily renters (although one notable exception- Mr. H.H. Voss, more on him later) and had little say in the future of the neighborhood.

A direct newspaper article title: [The street] Changes Name and Color

 
The first business to move to Edison St was Skelton Printing, who purchased the old Franklin Avenue Theater building (more about that building later) and ghost sign remnants of the printing operation can still be seen on the building.

Additional White owned businesses moved in soon thereafter. Once a budding commercial district was established, Salt Lake City decided to invest in better utilities and beautification efforts. For example, Edison Street was paved in 1909 with cement and sidewalks were installed.

A 1910 photograph of one of the new businesses- Voyles Meat Market at 152 E 200 South.

 
The paving helped resolve sanitary issues of the often muddy street with poor drainage and the high number of older homes that had never been connected to the sewer line (outhouses were abundant).

With the understanding that 1906 marks a significant year in the history of this street, My next several posts will discuss the pre-1906 history (Franklin Avenue) and the post-1906 history (Edison Street): Important events. Significant buildings. Interesting history. So much history to highlight!

NOTE – there is a rumor going around that Edison Street was so named because it was the first street with electric lights in SLC. *This is false.* Main Street was the first electrified street in SLC as it was the showcase business street.

Franklin Avenue History all February

Explore the hidden history of SLC's old Franklin Ave, now known as Edison Street. Located between 200-300 South Streets and State St and 200 East. This mid-block alley was once a micro community of Black Salt Lakers.

I plan to highlight the history of this street during the month of February 2025.

This or That - Preservation or Demolition

Very different attitudes toward community and history between these two owners of prominent historic buildings of Salt Lake City.

Micah Christensen, the new owner of the B'nai Israel Temple building at 249 S 400 E, talks about his sense of stewardship to the community which prompted him to purchase the building and preserve it, making it the home to the new Salt Lake Art Museum (@saltlakeartmuseum). Check out some recent media coverage: Salt Lake Tribune, Fox13

Vs.

Owners Robot Butcher Shop LLC (associated with Petersen family, owners of Overland West, Inc of Ogden) are pursuing demolition of the Phillips Congregational Church, 479 S 700 E. Their real estate agent, Chad Aris of AIM Real Estate Group, told Building Salt Lake they are prioritizing profit.

Of course, it is the owner's prerogative to do what they like with their property.

It's nice that we have community members like Micah Christensen. Thank you!

Demolition of the historic Phillips Congregational Church near Trolley Square

Demotion Pending! 

The historic Phillips Congregational Church near Trolley Square, 479 S 700 East Salt Lake City has a demolition permit filed with Salt Lake City. (The address is also identified as 495 S 700 East due to recent parcel consolidation) .

Owner Robot Butcher Shop LLC (Las Vegas, NV) plans to start demolition at the end of January, per their submitted permit to Salt Lake City.

Robot Butcher LLC is associated with Beer Zombies (Las Vegas), HallPass SLC, and Overland West. A source indicates that Beer Zombies and HallPass are no longer associated with Robot Butcher and it is Overland West, Inc has decided to proceed with the demolition permit. Erik Petersen of Overland West, headquarters in Ogden, was the company's signature for the parcel consolidation application.

This historic church was built in 1907. The church is not a local historic landmark site so there are no legal protections against demolition. It is up to the property owner to decide to demolish it or to keep it.

Building Salt Lake request comment from Erik Petersen who did not return their inquiries; however, their listing agent, Chad Ariss of AIM Real Estate Group did and told Building Salt Lake:

“RBS [Robot Butcher Shop] is exploring all options and entertaining the possibility of a sale prior to demolition for redevelopment or a lease opportunity.”

While that might encourage preservationists, Ariss added, “RBS believes the potential gross income from a ground lease is better than the lease rate with the structures in “as-is” condition and/or also in an updated condition with the necessary improvements done so the buildings are safe and desirable to prospective tenants.”

What about adaptive reuse? Ariss noted that “RBS was engaging in preliminary plans with a brewing company to turn the church building into a brewery, but parking restrictions made that unfeasible for the tenant.”

The Congregational Church is interesting because they delivered the first "Gentile Christian" sermon in SLC on Jan 22 1865 (nearly 160 years ago exactly!)

Of note, the pastor's house is now X-Wife's Place. X-Wife's Place is a separate parcel and is not proposed for demolition.

Some additional photos of the Phillips Congregational Church on 700 East 500 South, Salt Lake City. The property is up for sale (last photo) while the application for the demo permit is being processed by the City.